May 28, 2023 by Chris Elston

The Blue, Bluegrass of Kentucky: Montgomery Inn & Versailles, KY

Today the road has brought me to Versailles, KY.

Memorial Day Weekend had arrived and I was long overdue to answer the call of the road. Truth be told, this weekend was a bit of a treat for me as I had recently been promoted into a senior level position so I didn’t waste a beat in booking a room at Montgomery Inn Bed & Breakfast.

This was one of my longer outings, and would require 2 days of driving. Eight hours of driving on day 1 brought me to Mt Vernon, IL where I stopped for the night at a Holiday Inn. After several hours of rest, I was ready for some dinner so I walked the few hundred feet to Showdown Steakhouse & Saloon.

For a rarity, I was starving. (What can I say? An apple and a bit of beef jerky wasn’t enough fuel to see me through the day.) I ordered the 10 oz ribeye with some sauteed mushrooms and onions along with a salad and enjoyed one of the tenderest steaks I’ve ever sunk my teeth into along with some of the fluffiest rolls I’ve ever tasted with a smidgen of cinnamon butter.

The weariness of an 8 hour drive combined with a relaxing meal finally caused fatigue to catch up with me and I called it a night at 9pm where a full night of sleep re-energized me for another day of driving.

Sometimes even the interstate can take you to a pretty neat place. Part of my 2^nd day drive went through Indiana and for years I’ve semi-joked about how travel grinds to a halt due to about five interstates merging there. But this route was almost a subtle entry and it took me through the Hoosier National Forest where I just got to enjoy some of God’s splendor as I zipped down the lone interstate.

I rolled into town a tick past 1pm. I had paid $25 to check in early so I wandered into the house and met the innkeeper, Pam, and her trusty labradoodle, Sadie. Pam gave me the codes to use Hulu and Netflix and sent me to my room, the Cottage Suite.

This inn is a bit different than any I’ve visited. None of the rooms are in the house proper. Connected to the house is a long trailer shaped like a railroad car (it was once an open walkway) and all of the rooms plus the dining room are contained in the structure. My room was located in the caboose where I had a little porch where I could enjoy the perfect spring weather.

When I originally booked the room, it was called the Oriental and had an Eastern flavor. It had a little remodeling done and now had a more homey atmosphere with sky blue walls, some comfy chairs, a king-sized bed with luxury sheets, a writing desk, and a jetted tub. Truthfully, it felt more like a first class apartment.

I puttered around for a few hours before I headed to one of Montgomery Inn’s recommended restaurants for my dinner.

That restaurant was Ricardo’s Grill & Pub, a modernized and elegant sports bar. The pub was packed to the rafters, but service was still incredibly quick and efficient. I enjoyed a Build Your Own Burger (vegetables, pepper jack, bacon, and grilled onions) while I read a classic mystery from Ellery Queen.

With a good dinner digesting, I made my way over to Woodford Theatre where I had made arrangements to review their production of The Music Man.

The theatre has an awfully good location as it shares space in a community center, but has its own auditorium which is very well suited for theatrical productions. It also packs an impressive amount of talent as I enjoyed a very very good show which you can read about here.

After the show, I returned to the inn, still feeling well juiced due to having lost an hour crossing into the Eastern Time Zone. So I enjoyed a little Law & Order on my smart TV while cobbling my play review together. Around 11pm, I sunk under the sheets to enjoy a lengthy and comfortable sleep.

At 8:30am, I headed to the Club Car to have some breakfast. The room has the look and feel of a dining car and I felt like I was on the Orient Express as I sat down to enjoy a bit of breakfast and conversation with Pam. She had whipped up homemade cornbread along with a breakfast scramble of sausage, two poached eggs, and fried potatoes. A little pepper and hot sauce enhanced the already fine meal and I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before returning to the Cottage Suite.

Normally, I plan a lot of activities, but I didn’t do so this time around. Two days of driving just found me wanting to relax. For myself, I took a long soak in my jacuzzi bath and then spent my day reading, walking, and trying to get caught up on Cobra Kai. I will say that outside of Woodford Theatre, there are also a few museums and historical houses in town. There are many horse related activities as this is derby country. The towns of Frankfort and Lexington are also nearby if you’d like to hunt up some other activities.

But I enjoyed a sweet day of doing virtually nothing before heading over to Shelbyville where I enjoyed a service at Church of the Annunciation and then it was time for dinner.

KFC’s founder, Col. Sanders and his wife, Claudia, lived in Shelbyville and had quite a compound. Mrs. Sanders opened her own restaurant on the property, Claudia Sanders’ Dinner House, which is still in operation today. Mrs. Sanders had her own secret recipe for fried chicken and I was looking forward to putting that to the taste test.

The restaurant is located in what seems like a small auditorium on the far end of the property. You walk into a entry hall which contains a gift shop before being sent down a long hallway to the dining room. The room does feel like the dining room of a house with a large fireplace at one end of the room with a picture of the Colonel hanging above it.

I ordered the two piece chicken dinner which came with authentic mashed potatoes with milk gravy and a second vegetable of choice (I picked baked apples) along with some fluffy rolls shaped like muffins. The potatoes were light and whipped. The baked apples were blended with cinnamon. And the chicken was tasty and juicy. Some have said her recipe for fried chicken is better than Col. Sanders. I think it’s more of an apples and oranges thing, but I liked it and thought it more than measured up to the Colonel’s recipe.

With dinner taken care of, I returned to the inn to rest up for the night before the next day’s travels.

I awoke to a rainy, gray, and chilly morning. I once again made my way to the Club Car where I was greeted by Pam and the exuberant Sadie. Today’s repast consisted of homemade waffles with an apple/walnut compote and sausage patties. I enjoyed some more conversation with Pam (and played a little fetch with Sadie) before bidding the duo adieu and hitting the road.

And so ends another chapter of the road. If you’re looking for a quaint getaway in some beautiful country, try a stay at Montgomery Inn. It’s literally a home away from home.

Until the next time. . .happy travels.

January 2, 2023 by Chris Elston

And a Christmas New Year: The Victoria and Bentonville, AR

Today the road has brought me to Bentonville, AR.

This outing was a surprise even to me as I had just come back from a 7 day trip to Tempe, AZ where I visited some friends over Christmas. But as I told a friend of mine, I just didn’t feel traveled out enough. I thumbed through my list of B & Bs and found The Victoria and it had one room left for New Year’s. I booked it and headed south.

Relatively speaking the drive was a picnic as it was the shortest I’ve had in many a moon (less than 6 hours). So it was that I found myself in Bentonville on the afternoon of New Year’s Eve and at The Victoria, owned and operated by Michael and Joana Garrison.

The Victoria has a self check-in procedure. I was given a door code to let myself in and found a letter with my name on it welcoming me to the inn and guiding me to my room on the second floor. After picking my breakfast time, I headed up to my room: The Emperor.

This was a very elegant room with large paintings gracing the walls, a writing desk, an old-fashioned gas stove, a leather easy chair, and a large king bed. After settling in, I made a quick exploration of the property.

The Victoria has six rooms, each with a royal theme. There is also a seasonal swimming pool and a hot tub on the property. The mansion is surprisingly snug with the communal dining room serving as the commons area and the bedrooms being very close together.

After settling in, I headed off to worship at St Stephen. I have a feeling this is a very new building as it had a modern feel to it and was the second largest chapel in which I’ve attended a service.

I felt a real sense of serenity as I worshipped. There was no real “a-ha” moment to the service to cause this feeling. I just felt His presence and just rested in it for the service. Afterwards, I took a few snaps of the Christmas decorations around the chapel and then searched up a place to have dinner.

I had dinner at Table Restaurant on 6^th. The restaurant looks like it was once a house and has upgraded café food to a fine dining experience. I had a hankering for some Mediterranean food so I gave the Lamb Burger a taste and it really hit the spot. After satisfying my hunger, I returned to the Victorian and then walked the few blocks to the downtown area.

Downtown Bentonville has a wide variety of shops and restaurants, but it also has some great Christmas lights. I first went to the outdoor ice rink and took in their magic for a spell before heading to the town square to take in their holiday cheer. Then I took advantage of the nice night and wandered about the neighborhood for some exercise and to find more Christmas lights.

One thing I noticed was that many homes seemed quite well to do and I would later learn that Bentonville is one of the wealthiest cities in Arkansas and either does, or did, have two billionaires living in the city. After a good long walk, I returned to the inn where I watched a little TV before going to bed.

I had an early breakfast the next morning and headed down at 8:15am. I formally met Michael and took a seat at by the window. Michael gave me a mason jar full of water before taking my egg order. I opted for a vegetable omelet with a side of turkey bacon. Before sinking my teeth into that, I had a fresh from the oven cinnamon roll and some fruit from the buffet.

Breakfast was exquisite and I returned to room to relax for a bit before heading to nearby Fayetteville to once again enjoy Arkadia Retrocade.

I had visited this arcade back in March on my way home from Hot Springs, but didn’t get to fully enjoy it as I was on a tight schedule. This time I was able to indulge my video game loving heart to the fullest.

I said it in March and I’ll say it again. This is one of the two best retro arcades I’ve visited and is #1 in terms of pure value. For $5, you can game all day. I was so lost in the treasure trove of games that nearly five hours passed before I knew it. I had a fantastic day of gaming as I set personal bests on Crystal Castles, Burgertime, Fix it Felix, Jr., Dragon’s Lair (haven’t quite mastered the timing of the arcade version), Donkey Kong 3, and Kangaroo. I also conquered Sunsetriders, Spider-Man, Captain America and The Avengers, and, for the first time, Double Dragon II: The Revenge.

Then I drove back to The Victoria and made the short jaunt to Flying Fish. This is a casual seafood restaurant which also serves some Cajun fare. I ordered a cup of seafood gumbo along with shrimp jambalaya and bread.

This is how gumbo is supposed to be. A good gumbo is more like stew than soup and this one was right on the money with a thick, brown broth. The jambalaya was spot on and I used the seasoned bread to mop up the remains of my gumbo and jambalaya sauce. Then I walked for a few miles around town to get some more Christmas shots before retiring to the inn for the night.

Breakfast this morning was a repeat of yesterday’s though I had an orange roll instead of a cinnamon roll and nibbled on a cranberry (I think?) scone instead of having fruit.

And that brings this adventure to an end. It serves as a nice bookend as I’m starting the year in Arkansas and will also close it there when I visit Arsenic and Old Lace of Eureka Springs for my annual Christmas review. As to what happens in between. . .well, we’ll just see where the road takes me.

But if you find yourself in Bentonville, spend a night in regal elegance at The Victoria. You’ll find royal comfort, delicious food, and gracious hosts.

Until the next time. . .happy travels.

December 4, 2022 by Chris Elston

Here I Go A Wassailing: Old Rittenhouse Inn & Bayfield, WI

Today the road has brought me to Bayfield, WI.

It’s time once again for my favorite review of the year: the annual Christmas B & B review.

This review has been 3 years in the making, but at long last I was able to make my way to this tiny village at the tip of northern Wisconsin to experience Old Rittenhouse Inn, owned and operated by the Phillips family, and its famous Wassail Weekend which was back in action after being suspended due to COVID for a few years. This has been one of my favorite reviews and an inn that I would visit again in a heartbeat.

As I stated, Bayfield is a small village located at Wisconsin’s northern tip. It also sits at the base of Lake Superior which means there is always the danger of a lake effect blizzard. Due to this threat, I took the precaution of insuring my trip through Travel Guard. For the cost of $35, I was able to have the peace of mind knowing that I wouldn’t be out financially in case things went south and the insurance would also fund lodging to the tune of $100 a day for five days if weather prevented me from returning home.

Fortunately, the weather report called for cold, but clear, weather for my jaunt. So I was ready to rock.

I took an alternate route to Bayfield through the highways of Wisconsin for the double purpose of avoiding the Twin Cities which had just gone through a winter storm and for the hope of passing through small towns and seeing some local Christmas flavor. A hope which was fulfilled as I made the long, but quaint, drive through the state.

I finally arrived in Bayfield around 3:30pm on Friday afternoon. When you think small town, Bayfield is what leaps to mind. It only has a total population of 584, has no chain restaurants, and a movie theater with one screen. Truly it is the place to get away from it all.

The town had been bopped by its own storm on Tuesday and snow lined the streets and lawns. But, hey, what’s a Christmas review without the magic of some winter snow?

I made my way to Old Rittenhouse Inn which practically kisses Lake Superior. It is a Queen Anne Victorian mansion built in the Painted Lady architectural style and was originally built as a summer residence in 1890. Jerry and Mary Phillips bought the home in 1973 and began operating it as Wisconsin’s first B & B.

The mansion boasts an impressive 12 rooms which hold amenities such as whirlpool tubs, fireplaces, and views of Lake Superior. Old Rittenhouse also has a sister inn called Le Chateau which holds an additional seven rooms for lodgers. Old Rittenhouse also contains its own gourmet restaurant, Landmark Restaurant, on property and is open to the general public. As the restaurant only holds 62, reservations are highly recommended, even as a guest of the inn.

I crunched my way to the front door of the inn where I checked in at an honest to goodness front desk and was led to Room 6. This is one of the five biggest rooms I’ve stayed in and could have hosted a small party. The room’s tan walls hold some lovely paintings along with a comfortable leather couch, rocking chair, coffee table, private table for two, a king-sized bed, and a whirlpool tub in the corner. I also shared a private balcony with the room down the hall.

Once settled in, I explored the mansion and admired the Christmas festiveness on the first floor as well as the inn’s highly regarded stained glass windows.

Once my explorations were done, I donned my hat and coat and went to the downtown area to look around. Downtown is just a few blocks away so there’d be no need for the car for this journey. Downtown Bayfield looked properly Christmassy with the pine boughs wrapped around the street lamps and the storefronts shining with decorations, lights, and trees.

I was visiting during the off season so many activities and restaurants weren’t available to me which simply means I’ll have to come back during the spring or summer to experience ferries to the Apostle Islands and other seasonal events. But I did enjoy gazing into the various shops and stores and saw the Christmas spirit in full swing.

For my dinner, I headed to Morty’s Pub. This small bar and grill exuded a great deal of fun with sports showing on several TVs, a pool table, and seating at tables or the bar. Morty’s Pub also had a goodie table laid out with desserts and chips and some hot items for the patrons to enjoy.

For myself, I enjoyed a tasty Bourbon BBQ Burger while I continued working my way thought my latest book of Sherlock Holmes pastiches. A light snow had started to fall as I hiked my way back to the inn and I felt a long day of driving hit me as I entered my room. I drew a whirlpool bath, added some aloe and green tea bath salts and just soaked for a long while before crawling under the thick quilt and blankets and reading myself to sleep.

Since I tend to rise early, I decided to eat early as well and had made a reservation to have breakfast at 8am. In fact, I was the only guest eating at that early hour. A menu was available and breakfast is free to guests of the inn ($16 for the general public). The menu had several intriguing entrees, but I went with the special du jour: Virginia Ham Scramble with a side of Yukon Gold Potatoes.

Breakfast started with goblets of water and orange juice and a popover with crabapple ginger jelly. For those of you unfamiliar with them, it’s a hollowed-out muffin. Now I don’t typically eat jams or jellies, but this jelly was exquisite and the ginger really enhanced the flavor of the fruit. My entrée was perfect in every way, shape, and form. It was the perfect size and didn’t leave me feeling stuffed. The potatoes were nice and crisp and eminently seasoned. The scramble was right on the mark and a little cracked pepper upped the ante on the taste.

This, my friends, was dining. I spent 45 minutes eating this delectable faire as I vacillated from reading and watching the lake smoke (due to the water being warmer than the air) waft off of Lake Superior. I left a generous tip for the service (remember this is a working restaurant) and returned to my room for a bit of writing and reading.

About 11:30am I headed back downtown as I had a 90 minute massage scheduled at Superior Body Massage & Spa with Jen Banowetz. Might I say that if you’re seeking a massage in Bayfield, make an appointment with Jen. Jen’s knowledge of massage is unparalleled and she explained her techniques as she worked my muscles. Jen used a variety of techniques including acupressure, Thai, Chinese, and even a bit of chiropractic adjustment when she stretched out my lower back. The best moment was when she found a knot the size of a marble in my jaw and dissolved it with her fingers. I felt my jaw hang loose in a way I haven’t felt in ages.

After untying my knots, Jen led me to the infrared sauna to close out my treatment. Infrared sauna is a fairly new treatment that is more effective than traditional sauna as the infrared heaters warm you up from the inside out instead of just heating the air. This lets one have a longer treatment and also purges more toxins from the system, increases relaxation, helps in weight loss, and promotes better sleep just to name a few benefits.

After a great sweat, I made a stop at the spirits shop across the hall and picked up a six pack of Wisconsin’s famed Spotted Cow beer to enjoy with my siblings during our own Christmas celebration in a few weeks. I then returned to the inn for a brief rest before heading off to worship at Holy Family.

It was a good Advent service with the deacon giving a strong sermon on how easy it is to justify sin and accepting the challenge of Jesus to change those patterns of thinking. It was definitely a meaty subject to mull over. But what moved me the most was what happened when I was leaving the chapel.

Holy Family has had a substitute pastor and I shook his hand on the way out and he gave me the warmest handshake I think I have ever experienced. I was struck by his sincerity and his servant’s spirit which taught me a lesson in being Christian more powerfully than words ever could.

I mulled over that lesson as I walked back to Old Rittenhouse where I took another whirlpool bath and dressed for the Wassail dinner.

About 6pm I headed downstairs and found Landmark packed to capacity. I was seated at a table with a pair of lovely couples: Cheryl & Ed and Gail & Paul. I enjoyed conversing with them throughout the eve.

At 6:30pm, the Old Rittenhouse Singers lined the cherry staircase and Jerry Phillips appeared in the doorway, shook his tambourine, and shouted, “Wassail!!” which the diners/audience heartily repeated.

Jerry Phillips welcomes the diners to Wassail.

This launched the Wassail Weekend. Through the month of December, Old Rittenhouse Inn hosts 3 course luncheons ($65) and 5 course dinners ($95) where you are serenaded by the Old Rittenhouse Singers who will entertain you with a variety of Christmas hymns and carols. Normally, the singers go from dining room to dining room to serenade, but sang to us from the stairs this year as a precaution. Next year, the plan is to return to the traditional format.

Now five courses may sound like a lot of food and it is filling, but the portions are not excessive (though the main entrée, understandably, is the most filling) and the courses are paced out over the night. To give you an idea of the pacing, the first course was served shortly after 6:30pm and the final course was served around 10pm.

But what an amazing and festive night!!

The Christmas spirit was in full swing as the Old Rittenhouse Singers sang their hearts out and I enjoyed a sumptuous meal which began with a special Christmas cocktail called a White Christmas which was like a grasshopper without the green coloring. Throughout the night I enjoyed a sumptuous feast consisting of the following courses:

Course 1: Mushroom Consommé
Course 2: Wassail Salad
Course 3: Sorbet
Course 4: Shaved Prime Rib with asparagus and mashed potatoes
Course 5: Turtle Sundae with a rum syrup

With a full stomach and a peaceful soul, I slept soundly until morning dreaming of attending Wassail again in its full glory.

I dined early again as I had a long drive ahead of me and got to eat in the Blue Room (due to the color of the walls). This was the inn’s original dining room before the Phillips family expanded it into the restaurant in the early 1980s. I enjoyed the daily special again which was a Denver Scramble though I opted for bacon as the side dish and had V8 for the beverage.

Once I’d breakfasted, I settled the bill and began the long trek home.

If you want to experience Christmas in a way you never thought, you need to come to Old Rittenhouse Inn. You will have an experience that will have you light of heart and full in stomach. And the accommodations are luxurious and comfortable. It will truly be a weekend you will remember always.

Until the next time. . .happy travels. . .and happy holidays!

July 4, 2022 by Chris Elston

The Fourth in Wausau (But First in Class): Stewart Inn & Wausau,WI

Today the road has brought me to Wausau, WI.

After 4 months, I was more than ready for a relaxing return to the road. I’m currently in the midst of my regional play reviewing season, but my Fourth of July weekend was open so I decided it was time to partake in my 70^th B & B review. My choice: Stewart Inn, owned and operated by Randy and Sara Bangs.

I couldn’t have asked for a better road trip. I had to deal with a little rain, but also got to enjoy lunch with my best friend, Josh, when I made a brief stop in Fort Dodge, IA. I had a peaceful layover with a comfortable suite at the Holiday Inn Express in Albert Lea, MN and then took a more scenic and circuitous (by 15 minutes) route to Wausau.

Mid-afternoon on Saturday found me in Wausau and I soon found myself outside the impressive edifice of Stewart Inn. A quick text to Randy gained me entry into the mansion. As the first arriving guest, Randy gave me a thorough tour of the inn and its rooms.

Stewart Inn is designed in the Revival style by George Maher, a contemporary of Frank Lloyd Wright. This is a big house, but it’s very wide as opposed to being tall. It has the biggest commons area of any inn I’ve visited with a mammoth living room area, a library where one can curl up with a good book while seated in a comfy chair in front of a fire, and a TV room that could seat 6 people.

Architectually speaking, everything in the house is original: the wood, the fixtures, the fireplaces. The furniture is not, though some of it is period. After showing me around, Randy brought me to the Foster Room which would serve as my home away from home for a few days.

The Foster Room is very intimate with a working fireplace, a cozy chair, a small library, a desk, a queen-sized bed, and a TV mounted in the far wall. Stewart Inn actually has a pillow menu, but the soft, squishy pillows set on my bed fit the bill just fine.

Each room of the inn contains two unique amenities: a steam spa shower and an Amazon Echo Show. The Echo Show is voice activated with Alexa and you can get weather reports or enjoy some music. The steam spa shower lets you turn the shower into a steam bath.

It was a perfect day (perfect weekend, for the most part) with very comfortable temperatures and very little humidity. So I decided to walk to church to worship at Church of the Resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ. At least, that was the plan.

When I arrived, I was puzzled that no cars were in the parking lot and I found the doors locked (a fact that saddened me as, once upon a time, churches were unlocked all the time). Someone connected with the church appeared and asked me if I needed help and I befuddledly answered that I was hoping to attend the 4pm service. The helpful stranger told me that the 4pm service was at St Michael which I would never make.

As I walked back to the inn, I pulled up the church’s website and there it was: 4pm service. Then I read the rest of the line “at St Michael”. It turns out the website was for all the Catholic churches in Wausau and not just Resurrection.

So I enjoyed a leisurely walk around the neighborhood and downtown area before returning to the inn where I worshipped via a streaming service performed by Fr. Jack Sheaffer.

As it happens, Wausau is the hometown of my brother-in-law, Scott, and his mother, Pam, suggested I have a meal at the Pinewood Supper Club. So I made a reservation.

If you want to enjoy fine dining, I recommend giving this club a try. It’s located by Half Moon Lake so you can dine with a view of the water. It also has a well-stocked bar for those who would like to enjoy a pre-dinner drink. I was seated by the window where I enjoyed viewing the lake while noshing on a relish tray.

My dinner consisted of a salad with a dill ranch dressing and a main entrée of Blackened Salmon Oscar served with jasmine rice, fruit salsa, and grilled asparagus. The salmon was exquisite and I spent over an hour savoring the meal and even indulged in a post-dinner cordial of a grasshopper.

I drove back to the inn and took in another constitutional before retiring to my room for the night.

I awoke from a great night’s sleep and made use of the steam shower (very relaxing) before heading downstairs for some breakfast.

Down in the commons, I met Jodi and Brian with whom I enjoyed some conversation during the meal. Randy had promised some really great coffee. Now I don’t drink the stuff, but Jodi does and the self-professed “coffee snob” said it was really great coffee: very dark and rich. So consider that a recommendation from a connoisseur.

Breakfast was served in 3 courses. The first was a tasty yogurt served with grain-free granola. The second was fresh strawberries from the Farmer’s Market with homemade whipped cream. The final was biscuits and gravy. All of it was wonderful and I truly appreciated the portion sizes as they didn’t leave you feeling stuffed to the gills.

If you’re into nature and outdoor activities, Wausau has a number of parks and is famed for skiing. Given that it was summer, I decided to visit the Monk Botanical Gardens.

I was somewhat disappointed by the gardens simply because nothing seemed to be in bloom. However, I did enjoy walking the trails and got to play around with a flower kaleidoscope.

I returned to Stewart Inn where I took a longer walk around the downtown area where I looked at the famed Grand Theater and the 400 Block which is an outside concert venue that plays host to many summertime concerts.

It started to mist a bit as I walked back towards the inn so I ducked into Sweets on 3^rd where I nibbled a cup of Ultimate Oreo ice cream while I waited for the weather to clear up. Once it did, I returned to the inn where I organized photos and then headed out for a tour of Yawkey House.

Yawkey House was the home of Cyrus and Lisa Yawkey. Cyrus was a lumber baron and had the house started in 1899 and it was completed in 1901 at a cost of $35K ($1,000,000 in today’s numbers). Six years later, Cyrus had the house completely remodeled to keep up with the Joneses due to the popularity of the work of Frank Lloyd Wright whose revolutionary designs made Yawkey House’s original design seem passe.

Cyrus was part of what was known as the Wausau Group. They were a group of powerful businessmen who pooled their resources to bring a massive economic boost to Wausau (known as Big Bull Falls at the time). So massive was Wausau’s growth as a result of their efforts that Wausau nearly took over as the state capital.

Yawkey House is definitely worth a tour, especially at the low cost of $7. The house has had some restoration, but the woodwork is all original (most of which is no longer commercially available) as is most of the furniture.

After my tour, I came back to Stewart Inn where I did some prep work on the article until dinnertime.

And my evening meal was eaten at Milwaukee Burger Company. Now I rarely partake of a truly junky meal, but allowed myself to do so on this night. I tried a Spicy Curd Burger with a side of chili cheese fries. Everything about this burger screamed spice. Aside from the two pieces of spicy curd, the burger also brings the heat with a spicy chipotle spread and jalapeno infused bacon. The burger was nice and juicy and it definitely had a lingering heat as I very nearly broke out into a sweat. The service wasn’t quite up to snuff and that’s even making allowances for the Great Resignation.

After dinner it was back to the inn to begin writing and just relaxing for the night.

Breakfast the next morning consisted of a delightful Almond Joy Crustini, cantaloupe, and polenta with chicken sausage. Conversation ran the gamut from music, to pets, to fitness, to employment. As we left the table, Randy gifted us with discount coupons for stays at Inns of Choice (11 best B & Bs in WI), future stays at Stewart Inn, and a last one for any B & B in WI.

A very wonderful and relaxing inn experience and I was sorry to see it end. But if you find yourself, up Wausau’s way, take in a night or two at Stewart Inn. It’s a haven.

Have a fun Fourth and, until the next time. . .happy travels.

March 30, 2022 by Chris Elston

A Hot Time in the Old Springs: Gables Inn & Hot Springs, AR

Today the road has brought me to Hot Springs, AR.

I had some time to burn, so I decided to go on an outing, but wanted to go in a new direction and, preferably, someplace warm. A little look through my spreadsheet and I settled on Hot Springs, AR where I would stay at Gables Inn, owned and operated by Dave and Judy.

It was a beautiful day for travel and I enjoyed the weather and my tunes as I made my way to my stopping point of Miami for the night. Miami, OK that is.

Miami is a small town nicknamed “The Gate” due to its being about 30 minutes from the Kansas border and about 20 minutes from the Missouri border. The legendary Route 66 also runs through the town.

I checked into my suite at the town’s Holiday Inn Express and rested for a few hours before heading off to worship at Sacred Heart Catholic Church.

It was a mighty good service as Father warmed up to his sermon which centered on the parable of The Prodigal Son where he talked about the role of forgiveness in Lent. Father said nothing thrilled him more than when people came to Confession and told him that they hadn’t come in years. He saw it as a time for celebration as they recognized their need for forgiveness.

I also ended up providing a little entertainment for the congregation as I was seated near the front and didn’t know what to do for Eucharist as nobody appeared at the front to distribute it. One of the parishioners eventually pointed out that they were really old school and actually knelt at the Communion rail in order to receive it.

After church, I began looking for something to eat, but found myself thwarted a bit. My first choice was closed for the day and the town is also suffering from the short staffedness caused by the pandemic so I ended up skipping my second choice as the wait would have been too long. Eventually, I hit pay dirt with my third choice of Montana Mike’s Steakhouse.

I enjoyed a surprisingly tender sirloin with a topper of Creamy Cajun shrimp. The cream was nice and sharp and really enhanced the flavor of the beef. After the meal, I returned to the hotel where I enjoyed a quiet night capped off with a relaxing jacuzzi bath before going to bed.

The next day I was back on the road and soon found myself in the Natural State enjoying the views of forests and mountains as I made my way to Hot Springs.

Hot Springs is a village nestled within the Ouachita Mountains and the last 70 miles found me navigating twisty roads and hills as I admired some of God’s scenery. Around 4pm I found myself at Gables Inn.

Gables Inn is a Victorian house which had been built as the dream home of Fred and Myrtle Sammons. The home was gutted by the infamous Hot Springs fire of 1904, but the Sammons rebuilt the entire thing from top to bottom and returned to their home in 1905. The house became an inn in 1993 and was taken over by Dave and Judy in 1996 which makes it the longest continuing B & B in Hot Springs.

Judy met me at the door and led me to the Governor’s Room which would serve as command center for the next few days. The room has the feel of a classic Victorian inn with its fireplace and Victorian lamps. For more modern comforts, the room contains a king-sized bed with memory foam pillows and a two person jacuzzi bath.

On the desk was a bottle of the town’s namesake water which is reported to have high healing properties and I can certainly testify that it healed my thirst.

I didn’t plan too much for my first night. I just went to Red Pier for dinner as I was in the mood for Cajun food. It’s a chain restaurant very similar to the Angry Crab Shack of Phoenix, AZ. The meal balanced out to OK. I had a small bowl of gumbo which had a decent taste, but was more like soup instead of stew. The chicken strips I had were incredibly juicy with flavorful meat, but had bland breading.

After dinner, I just returned to the inn where I puttered around before going to bed to energize myself for the next day.

In the morning I went down to the dining room for breakfast and heard the other guests excitedly planning their days while we dined on a delicious 4 cheese quiche with cherry tomatoes and sausage. With the other guests plotting their own adventures, there wasn’t much conversation so I finished eating fairly quickly before heading out the door.

4 cheese quiche, cherry tomatoes, and sausage

Hot Springs is interesting as it is not only a tourist town with a lot of activities, but it’s also built around a national park so there’s something for everybody. Is shopping your bag? Lots of interesting stores to visit. Enjoy nature? Plenty of hiking and scenery. Perhaps you like shows? The #1 magic show in all of Arkansas holds court in Hot Springs. Maybe you just want to relax? There’s a series of bathhouses and spas along Bathhouse Row.

For myself, I went to the national park and went to the top of the Mountain Tower. This 216-foot structure provides a panoramic view of Hot Springs and in the distance you can see the West and Sugarloaf Mountains.

After enjoying nature, I went back to the main drag and bought tickets to take a duck boat tour as well as visit Josephine Tussaud’s Wax Museum.

A duck boat is a truck that can transform into a boat. So our captain took us on a tour of Hot Springs on the streets before taking us onto the lake in boat mode and show us some of the luxury homes. A lot of wealthy people like to use Hot Springs as a vacation home. The owners of one of the houses only visits 3 days out of the year and, the rest of the time, the house is occupied by a housekeeper and her daughter who keep the place tidy.

Speaking of “vacation homes”, a lot of notorious gangsters liked to spend time in Hot Springs. Lucky Luciano and Al Capone were frequent visitors who often plied their trade while relaxing.

When the tour was done, I went to Josephine Tussaud’s Wax Museum. If you’re wondering, she is the great-great granddaughter of Madame Tussaud, but this museum is not connected to that famous chain. It’s been the same exhibit since 1971, but is still in pretty good condition. I enjoyed replicas of The Last Supper, wandered through a Chamber of Horrors, experienced historical moments like Lincoln’s assassination, and ambled through a land of fantasy where characters from fairy tales and Mark Twain stories greeted me.

From the museum, I wandered up and down the drag, stopping in at an old-fashioned candy store where I picked up some cinnamon bears and at a beef jerky outlet when I picked up a snack pack of cracked pepper jerky. Heads up, the jerky isn’t cheap. My snack pack cost nearly $12.

I also took a brief stop at Arlington Lawn to see the hot springs and briefly touch the 143 degree water.

Then I got in my car and headed off to Anthony Chapel. This wood and glass structure looks like the twin of Thorncrown Chapel in Eureka Springs. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see the inside of it as a wedding was being held.

I was ready for a little break and returned to the inn to rest up a bit before walking downtown for an early dinner at Brick House Grill.

This is one of the favorite restaurants of Dave and Judy and after experiencing it, I can see why. Brick House Grill has a bistro feel and even includes outdoor seating. I had the Brick House Burger and it was one of the tastiest burgers I’ve ever eaten. I could smell the chargrill as it was placed in front of me. It was so juicy and the grilled onions and crispy bacon really hit the spot.

When dinner digesting I headed over to the Malco Theatre AKA The Maxwell Blade Theatre of Magic.

Maxwell Blade Theatre of Magic and Comedy

Maxwell Blade’s magic show has been the top rated show in Arkansas for the better part of three decades and I highly recommend a visit to the theatre to experience both the Close Up show and the full theatre show.

The Close Up show takes place at 6pm in a tiny theatre just behind the bar. And I do mean tiny. The theatre only holds about 24 people so I can assure you the tricks are done right in front of your face.

The Close Up show is performed by Jonathan Erlandson, a very talented magician. He did things 3 feet from my face that just didn’t seem possible such as making a table float and dance. He even did variations of classic tricks with bold twists.

At one point, Erlandson brought up an audience member and had her shuffle a deck of cards and give him half. Then he offered to switch decks or even have her take cards from his pile or add cards to his pile from hers. She added to his pile. Then she picked a card and he picked a card. Then they switched decks and he correctly picked her card. But the real trick was that she was going to pull his card. Erlandson told her to fan the cards and pick any card she wanted from his deck. Then he calmly stated what his card was and the eyes of the audience member bugged out as she turned the card around and it was right!!

I thought his most impressive illusion was when he asked for a bill. I offered up a $20 and Erlandson had me write my name on it. He then folded it up, tossed it into a bowl of lighter fluid, and lit it on fire as a stopwatch while he sped solved a Rubik’s Cube.

He solved the puzzle in a matter of seconds, but my $20 was ash. Then he talked about the Attention Test (watch the video first).

Did you do so? OK.

Then he asked us if we had noticed the point he walked over to the sealed jar on the opposite side of the stage. He went to the jar, removed the lid, and took something off of the clip hanging to it. He handed it to me and had me unfold it. It was my $20. And, no, he never walked near the jar.

You must see this show and enjoy some truly in your face magic.

The main show, performed by Maxwell Blade, is also a treat. Blade’s show is full of comedy, music, and magic. His sleight of hand is so quick and sure. He’s an accomplished piano player and he and his girlfriend belted out a pretty fair rendition of “Rocketman”. Blade’s tricks and illusions are performed at a blitzkrieg pace, but my two favorites were his new take on Houdini’s famed Metamorphosis trick. Though, in this one, his assistant was chained up in an iron maiden shaped cage in full view of the audience before they swapped places with a close of the curtain. With another sweep of the curtain, Blade had escaped and the stagehand was now shackled.

His final illusion was incredible as he poured various colored powders into a fish bowl and swirled them into liquid. After showing us his clean hands, he swirled again and broke them back up into solid powders.

If you’re a fan of magic and fun, buy a ticket for this show and find out why it’s the best in the state.

Then I walked back to Gables Inn, drew a jacuzzi bath, and just relaxed while sipping a cream soda before going to sleep.

The next morning found me back in the dining room where I had some conversation with a couple from Texas and a couple from Germany while enjoying blueberry cream cheese stuffed French Toast and sausage.

Sausage and Blueberry Cream Cheese Stuffed French Toast

This was a great trip and I’m a little blue to see it come to an end. But take some time in Hot Springs where you can enjoy almost any sort of activity you can imagine. And be sure to take a room in Gables Inn where you can enjoy some classic Southern hospitality in a comfortable Victorian inn.

Until the next time. . .oops, wait a sec.

It’s bonus time.

On my way home, I took an extended break in Fayetteville, AR so I could experience Arkadia Retrocade.

Hands down, this is the best vintage arcade I have ever seen and it wasn’t operating at full strength. The arcade has only recently reopened so some of the games are being worked on, but even at partial strength, this place is amazing.

For $5 (yes, you read that right) you can play all you want for the day. This place not only has classics, but has some next door to impossible games to find as well. Some rare gems I found at this arcade were Thayer’s Quest, a Dragon’s Lair type game that was never fully finished; Hologram Time Traveler, another Dragon’s Lair type game which simulates the look of a hologram; Gold Medalist which was made for the Seoul Summer Olympics; 720, Krull; and many more. There are even sections set up where you can play classic systems like Coleco Vision and Atari 2600. If I’m ever through this way again, I’m going to arrange for a full day of gaming as two hours was simply not enough time.

And now, until the next time. . .happy travels.

March 20, 2022 by Chris Elston

Natural Tranquility: Hidden Serenity & West Bend, WI

Today the road has brought me to West Bend, WI.

It’s nice to get back on the road after the winter months. Though, honestly, I was originally going to take this trip back in January as the Midwest had been experiencing a very mild winter. However, the night before my trip, the state of Iowa got crippled by a monster blizzard which stopped my excursion cold, if you’ll pardon the expression.

Mercifully, the owners of the inn I planned to visit were gracious enough to let me move my reservation to March so I wouldn’t be out the money plus the good people at Holiday Inn of Cedar Rapids gave me a refund on my nonrefundable rate without my having to ask so it all worked out for the best. Thus, I finally found myself on the road to Hidden Serenity Bed and Breakfast, owned and operated by Chris and Sally Cochran.

The trip didn’t start off the greatest as I had to listen to my beloved Iowa Hawkeyes make an ignominious first round exit from the NCAA BB tournament due to a combination of ice cold shooting and the refs missing some blatant fouls that would have likely led to us winning in spite of our shooting woes.

A meal at my favorite hole in the wall, Iowa’s Best Burger Café, and a free upgrade to a king suite at the Holiday Inn at Cedar Rapids helped to improve my mood as well as grant me a satisfactory night of rest.

A grim and rainy day met me the next morning and followed me all the way to West Bend. Hidden Serenity is located on a secluded acreage outside of West Bend and the bright white house shone like a beacon in the gloom.

I pressed the doorbell which chimed out a charming tune and the door was answered by Sally who showed me around the common areas and, to my delight, offered me a free upgrade to the inn’s honeymoon suite, the Kettle Moraine. After showing me all the ins and outs of my room, she left me to my own devices.

Hidden Serenity isn’t your typical B & B abode. The Cochrans built the house in 1997 from wood on their acreage and it was their private home where they raised “four extraordinary children”. The Cochrans also hosted exchange students for years and have a travel bug that might even exceed mine. But once the children had grown, they decided to start sharing their home with the public, filling the house with fine furniture and they are currently in the process of renovating the basement area into a spa complete with hot tub, sauna, and massage room (this is currently in use).

The house evoked memories of my visit to Otter Creek Inn in Eau Claire, WI in the sense that the house has more of a lodge feel with its massive great room which includes a pool table guests can actually play. The house is also a unique fusion of rustic and luxury.

The Kettle Moraine has the same blend of swank and hominess possessed by the rest of the house. A soft king-sized bed is the centerpiece of the room, but it also contains a pair of comfortable leather easy chairs with a beautiful view of the forest. A faux fireplace graces one of the walls and the mirror above it contains a hidden LCD TV. The bathroom contains heated tiles, a rainfall shower, and a two person slipper tub.

I didn’t have too long to putter because I had a massage scheduled at 4:40pm. I met my masseuse, Joann, who led me to the basement and the massage room. As I readied myself for my massage, I noticed the starlit roof which made me feel like I was in a planetarium. Soon all thoughts fled my brain as Joann worked the kinks out of shoulders and the aches out of my feet.

Feeling good and relaxed, I headed out to get some dinner at the Jail House. Sally had told me that the place might be jumping and right she was. Luckily, on Fridays, the Jail House only accepts reservations for parties of 5 or more so people can move in and out more quickly. I was told I’d have to wait 30-40 minutes which I was fully prepared to do as I had a new volume of Sherlock Holmes pastiches to read. However, I only ended up waiting for about 20 minutes before being seated for dinner.

I opted for a Southwest Salmon served with homemade black bean salsa, a bowl of seafood chowder, and a side of steak fries. The broth of the chowder was a little thin and could have used a bit more seafood, but had a good taste, especially when enhanced with a bit of pepper. The salsa and salmon were excellent. The salmon had a sweet chili glaze and was just slightly blackened which made it incredibly flavorful.

After dinner, I returned back to the inn and I advise caution as there are no street lights, but a path of lanterns does light the way to Hidden Serenity once you get close to the inn.

I started watching Cinderella Man, based on the true story of James J. Braddock, a promising boxer who saw his career derailed by injury and descended into poverty due to the Great Depression. He staged a miraculous comeback which saw him upset the virtually unstoppable Max Baer for the world heavyweight championship.

Slumber beckoned to me throughout the film, so I stopped it and went to bed.

And sleep I did, not awakening until nearly 8am which is practically unheard of for me. I spent a little time watching the The Price is Right channel before heading to the dining area for breakfast.

I saw the inn’s other guests being entertained by Chris as I took a seat. Soon a plate of fruit and a small pot of herbal tea was placed before me. The tea was an amazing blend of rosemary and peppermint which I contentedly sipped while nibbling on kiwi, oranges, strawberries, and blackberries.

Course number two was Polish sausage with peanut butter cream cheese stuffed French Toast served with the inn’s own maple syrup (also available in a peanut butter variety) and a maple vinaigrette salad. For dessert, there was a concoction of blue Jell-O and Blue Moon ice cream which was a tasty treat of an exclamation point to the meal.

After breakfast, I headed out to West Bend to Blades Barbershop for a bit more pampering.

Blades updates the traditional barbershop experience for the modern times. I decided to have a shave and a haircut with Julie Kidder. I was long overdue for a haircut and felt the relief of having a pound of hair cut away from my head. But the shave was the real joy. Julie treated my face with some tonic before lathering me and scraping off my beard with a straight razor. I truly felt clean shaven afterwards and she mentioned I had an extremely thick set of whiskers (no hyperbole as I can grow a full beard in roughly 2 weeks).

For once, I decided not to book any other activities. I just wanted to relax so I returned to Hidden Serenity where I walked its trail and then returned to my room to finish Cinderella Man. With the movie over, I drew a bath and added a bottle of peppermint bath salts and just soaked until the heat left the water.

With the bath done, I was ready to head off to worship at St Frances Cabrini. It was a nice service with Father’s sermon focusing on how the time is now to change your heart as the theme of Lent this year is about conversion. I also found it apropos as the Catholic church is making a concentrated effort to evangelize and St Frances Cabrini seems to be ahead of the game with literature encouraging their parishioners on how to welcome those curious about this branch of Christianity and not to be afraid to explain the ritual parts of the service to those unfamiliar with them.

After getting my praise on, I needed some dinner. My first choice, Main Street Café, was closed so I went to Omicron Family Restaurant. There’s nothing fancy about this place. It’s just good, old-fashioned comfort food and I enjoyed a Gyro sandwich before returning to Hidden Serenity for a bit of writing and beddy-bye.

I was pleased to wake up to a sunny day which would make for a very pleasant drive home. I really didn’t want to go home, but reality was calling. But at least I could enjoy one more nourishing breakfast before I started the drive.

Today’s repast started with a bowl of carrot cake oatmeal. So tasty!! This was followed up by a custom made omelet (I had mine with the works. Ham, bacon, cheese, onions, olives, tomatoes, spinach, mushrooms) with a bit of fruit and asparagus. Last, but not least, was a pair of chocolate cake/fudge bars drizzled with chocolate and (I believe) caramel. A fine, bracing meal to get me on my way.

This was a fine return to the B & B world and I consider Hidden Serenity to be my own personal Walden. So if you want to get away from it all and I mean REALLY get away from it all, book a stay at Hidden Serenity and enjoy some rustic luxury.

Until the next time. . .happy travels.

December 12, 2021 by Chris Elston

Christmas Lights it Up: Fargo Mansion Inn & Lake Mills, WI

Today the road has brought me to Lake Mills, WI.

Yes, sir, it’s time once again for my favorite event and, I hope, yours. It’s the annual Christmas B & B review.

This year’s review brought me to Lake Mills and The Fargo Mansion Inn owned and operated by Tom Boycks and Barry Luce.

Fargo Mansion Inn is an 1881 Queen Anne mansion which had been bought by E.J. Fargo, son of the founder of Wells Fargo, in 1883. Fargo was also a bit of an inventor as he created the central vacuuming system still used in homes today. He lived in the mansion until his death in 1921 and his third wife continued to live there before moving to a nearby nursing home where she passed away at the age of 67. At that point, the mansion was transformed into apartments for years before falling into disrepair and condemnation.

Boycks and Luce bought the mansion in 1985 and spent two years restoring it and were actually one of, if not the first, B & B proprietors in Wisconsin. In fact, the partners are the founding members of the Wisconsin Bed and Breakfast Association. If the inn and the association don’t keep them busy enough, Boycks and Luce also have several other business interests in the community.

Unlike a great deal of my outings, I was only going to have one day to enjoy the inn and community so I had to hit the ground running. Once I spotted the mansion, I knew I had hit the jackpot.

One of the inn’s calling cards is that the owners like to decorate it according to a 19^th century Victorian Christmas and I felt my Christmas juices flowing when I saw the Christmas tree and pine strings decorating the outside of the inn along with cutouts of toy soldiers.

Tom opened the door before I even had a chance to ring the bell and welcomed me into the home where I also met Barry. Tom gave me the quarter tour of the home and I marveled at the decorations and period antiques in the common areas. He then led me to the Enoch J Fargo Suite which was my room for the night.

This is Fargo Mansion’s largest room and dubbed the honeymoon suite containing a queen-sized bed, English writing desk, and a secret. Don’t worry, I won’t keep you in the dark. The bathroom has a secret entrance behind one of the bookshelves and is the closest I’ve come to seeing a true secret passage.

Once I got settled, I returned to the commons where I took a really good look around and enjoyed the fresh, piney smell of a real Christmas tree and took a close look at the intricate Christmas decorations and enjoyed some photos of the mansion back in its original heyday.

Before I knew it, it was time to go to church. I visited St Francis Xavier and this was a mighty small chapel; about on par with my visit to Our Lady of Victory in Limon, CO over the summer. Father Bob conducted the service and he was a gregarious and entertaining pastor. This was the third Sunday of Advent known as Gaudete (Rejoice) Sunday and is represented by the rose-colored candle on the Advent wreath. Rejoice was the key word of the service as Father’s sermon centered around rejoicing that our Savior was coming and our Savior was here and with us. It was definitely a good one to feel the Spirit moving and I left worship with a flutter in my heart and a rumble in my stomach.

It was indeed dinnertime and I headed over to the nearby town of Johnson Creek to eat at Crawfish Junction.

Crawfish Junction is a bar/restaurant known for its Cajun fare. Surprisingly it does not seem to serve gumbo (unless it pops up as a soup of the day), but does serve an excellent plate of jambalaya to which I added some delectable shrimp and forewent the hush puppies for homemade mashed potatoes and gravy. The gravy had a great taste, but was much too thin, but the potatoes were right on the mark.

Satiated, I then headed to Janesville, WI to enjoy one of the region’s premier holiday events: the Holiday Light Show at the Rotary Botanical Gardens.

I had read of the event prior to my arrival, but, thanks to Sandy, whom I met in my previous review, I learned that the tickets had to be bought in advance and would not be sold at the door. So keep that in mind if you want to visit.

This truly is a popular event as there was a large line of people still waiting to get into the gardens, but it is well worth it. A million lights transform the gardens into a Christmas wonderland where you get to see flowers, Christmas trees, old-fashioned lampposts, sea serpents, Old Glory, and many other colorful surprises guaranteed to make your eyes pop.

I could have spent hours there, but had to settle for 40 minutes as plummeting temperatures were turning me into a Chrisicle. Afterwards, I returned to Fargo Mansion for some article prep and then sunk under the thick quilt for the night.

I wish I could sleep like that all the time. I closed my eyes and when I opened them it was nearly 6am. I had some time to write and ablute and then went down to breakfast.

Tom served up some lemon bread with a granola/yogurt/fruit dish and a main course of cheesy scrambled eggs, orange slices, and sausage links. Tom is easily one of the best conversationalists I’ve had as a host and he may be the future version of myself as we seem to share similar senses of humor and personality traits. But he is truly a master at the art of hospitality as we talked about the B & B industry and the events of the day.

Alas, I had to start heading the preparations for my drive home. But if you’re in Lake Mills, especially around Christmas, stay at Fargo Mansion. You’ll have an excellent pair of hosts, a wonderful mansion to relax in, and a fine feed in the morning.

And that wraps up this review, join me in about two weeks when I close out the year with a special holiday series when I travel to Orlando, FL to experience Walt Disney World for the holidays. It’ll be a grand adventure.

Until the next time. . .happy travels.

November 28, 2021 by Chris Elston

A Magical Holiday Escape: The Roost and Appleton, WI

Today the road has brought me to Appleton, WI.

Oh, what a difference a month or two can make. Originally, I was going to be doing an earlier than usual Christmas review, but I ended up having to change plans when my selection opted to postpone its signature holiday event. So I booked a different venue for the annual review and still found myself with an extra day off for the Thanksgiving weekend. So I thought to myself, “Why waste a good day off?” Thus, I scheduled a trip to Appleton to visit The Roost Bed & Breakfast, owned and operated by De Ann Steffens.

I enjoyed a pleasant drive to Appleton while sitting on pins and needles as I listened to the Iowa Hawkeyes pull off a miraculous comeback against the Nebraska Cornhuskers. I lost the signal for the game’s final few minutes, but heaved a sigh of relief as I saw they had obtained the victory just as I pulled into the Roost.

De Ann greeted me at the door and gave me the nickel tour before leading me to the Tapestry Suite. True to its name, a large tapestry does adorn one of the walls. A cheery fire was going which added to the room’s ambiance. A large two-person jacuzzi sat in corner while a high, four poster queen bed sat in the other.

I got things organized and immediately headed out to my car to experience some of the town.

Though this isn’t a formal Christmas review, I was able to scratch my Christmas itch with visits to Darboy Community Park to enjoy Fox Cities’ Festival of Lights and the nearby Oshkosh Celebration of Lights at Menominee Park.

The Festival of Lights is a half mile self-guided walking tour through a winter wonderland of lights that form elves, dinosaurs, toys, snowmen, and even Santa’s workshop. It’s completely free and donations are cheerfully accepted. You can even buy a hot beverage to ward off the chill.

But if you want a heavy shot of Christmas, you definitely need to visit the Celebration of Lights in Oshkosh. It’s a drive through tour featuring twelve miles of lights and effects while you tune in to a dedicated radio station of Christmas songs to strengthen the magic. Cost is $10 per car. Aside from the dazzling display of lights, you can even stop by the workshop to visit that guy in the red suit who likes to say “Ho! Ho! Ho!”

Feeling the joy of the holiday, I returned to the inn and gamed a bit before curling up in my bed for the night.

I awoke the next morning and I was starved. De Ann had prepared a fruit dish along with Baked French Toast that had a crust of brown sugar and cinnamon along with some bacon and eggs. I was unable to finish the tasty meal and took a half hour walk to burn off some of the calories. Then I hopped into the car to begin exploring some of Appleton.

First, I decided to get my history on with a visit to The History Museum at the Castle in downtown Appleton. It’s not terribly huge and, at first, I was mildly disappointed. The main floor featured an exhibit about famed writer (and Appleton native) Edna Ferber along with some tidbits about Appleton history including the first jukebox, X-ray machine, and new voting machine, but nothing with that wow factor. I headed upstairs feeling overcharged for the $10 I spent, but then things took a turn.

The second floor features a little exhibit on social research and the history of toys, but its main attraction is the history of famed magician and escape artist, Harry Houdini, and that was worth the price of admission by itself.

Houdini had claimed Appleton as his hometown and the museum goes into a detailed history of Houdini’s upbringing and rise to fame. The museum even has a replica of the trick coffin (a new illusion) that Houdini was buried in as well as cuffs he escaped from, one of his straitjackets, a replica of his milk can escape, a representation of his Chinese Water Torture Escape, and you can even perform his famed Metamorphosis trick where he would be locked into a box and then switch places with his wife in 3 seconds. You can also perform one of Houdini’s famed jail cell escapes. Houdini wasn’t shy about sharing secrets to some of his tricks so be forewarned to skip the backstage part of the exhibit if you want to keep the tricks a mystery.

From there I drove through downtown Appleton and enjoyed the Christmas decorations. Appleton is actually a happening town with a lot of restaurants and activities and even boasts a pretty impressive performing arts center which I may have to visit at some point in the future. But, for now, I had a quest.

My older and younger brothers, Brian and Dan, decided to utilize my being in Wisconsin to pick up some regional beverages. So I began the search for Spotted Cow beer and Sprecher’s Grape Soda. I went to a Super Target and was denied. Then I reached a Festival Foods where I found Spotted Cow, but they seemed to have every flavor of Sprecher’s except Grape. Brian opted for a cherry soda as a Plan B.

Flush with success I returned to The Roost to begin writing. After a few hours I was off to worship at St Bernadette’s where I enjoyed a pleasant Advent service centering on a sermon telling us that Jesus, our Friend and Teacher, had come, will come again, and had never left us. A truly blessed thought to warm the soul.

With services completed, I grabbed an early dinner at Cinder’s. This restaurant is famed for cooking over charcoal and I enjoyed the cindery goodness of a Northwoods Burger with a side of fries (bottomless, if you feel like more) while I watched the Minnesota Golden Gophers give the Iowa Hawkeyes an early Christmas gift in the form of a trip to the Big 10 title game with a victory over the Wisconsin Badgers. Then it was back to The Roost to organize some photos, write a bit more, and grab a hot bath in my jetted tub on a frozen night while watching The Karate Kid before retiring.

At breakfast this morning, I met Fred & Sandy who seemed to love B & Bs as much as I do along with sharing a mutual love of theatre. As we conversed, we enjoyed sausage, eggs (over hard for me), granola & yogurt, and more Baked French Toast though with cream cheese and blueberries. I hated to end the conversation, but duty called, not to mention a fairly long drive.

And that wraps up this installment. Appleton is a nice little town with a lot of activities and Christmas cheer and Green Bay is not too far away if you happen to be a Packers fan. If you’re in the area, take some time to rest at the Roost and enjoy a little understated elegance.

Until the next time. . .happy travels.

October 3, 2021 by Chris Elston

A Castle in the Country: Cameo Rose Victorian Country Inn & Belleville, WI

Today the road has brought me to Belleville, WI.

From the moment I saw Cameo Rose Victorian Country Inn, owned and operated by Gary and Dawn Bahr, I knew it was going to be the next B & B I would visit. So I took advantage of an unseasonably warm early October to have one of my more enjoyable adventures.

I hit the ground sprinting on this jaunt as I partook of my first activity before I even arrived at the inn. That activity was Cave of the Mounds located in Blue Mounds, WI.

Cave of the Mounds was discovered in August 1939 when a quarry blast revealed the mammoth caverns. From that discovery, the caves have now become an educational tourist attraction.

There are more than just the caves to explore. Several trails are available for hiking as well as a gift shop and a sluice (bags of dirt are available in the gift shop for sluicing). But the caves are what everybody comes to see.

Tours have resumed at the caves, but they’re a little different from pre-pandemic times. Now the tours are self-guided, though guides are available at certain points to answer questions and information kiosks are available to educate you throughout your tour. So, on one hand, you may not get as much information, but you can leisurely enjoy the caves and see the awesome formations of nature.

After enjoying a pleasant walk through the caves, I made my way over to Belleville to check into the inn.

Cameo Rose is located on a secluded acreage just outside of Belleville where one can enjoy true peaceful solitude. Unlike many B & Bs which were private homes, Cameo Rose was specifically built to be an inn so you get a traditional country inn set in the modern times.

I was greeted at the door by Dawn who has a wealth of information about the area. She gave me a tour of the home and led me to my base of operations: Battenburg Lace Whirlpool Room. It’s a spacious room with a king-sized bed, rose wallpaper, wine-colored carpet, a fireplace, an easy chair, some antique fixtures and a large bathroom with a soaker whirlpool (no soaps, oils, or shampoo).

While I got comfy, Dawn brought me a pumpkin spice bar and a glass of freshly squeezed lemonade. After drinking that cup, I don’t think I’ll ever drink anything less than the real McCoy again. I unwound for a bit before heading out to nearby Mt Horeb for a bite to eat.

My dinner would be at Grumpy Troll, a famed local eatery. Like many businesses, Grumpy Troll is suffering some understaffing due to COVID, so you might need to have a bit of patience. I opted to sit at the bar to avoid a wait for a table.

I ordered the namesake burger which was nice and juicy, but, surprisingly had no vegetables which was the only thing missing to make it a perfect burger. However, it did fill the cavity and give me the juice I needed to close out the night at Screamin’ Acres in Stoughton, WI.

Screamin’ Acres is a haunted attraction created by Jacob Eugster in 2011. Originally, it was intended to help Jacob pay off his school loans, but it has morphed into one of the top seasonal attractions in the area.

I started my night getting “disinfected” when I stepped into a machine that buried me in bubbles which felt refreshing on a muggy night. From there I had a brief wait in line before beginning the attraction.

You will definitely get your money’s worth out of this one as it will take at least an hour to make it through the haunts. Time clocks are at the start of each attraction so the staff can socially distance groups for an enjoyable experience. Screamin’ Acres has an impressive attention to detail with each attraction having its own in-depth story and you can read about those at the link provided a few paragraphs ago. The actual haunted house portion was my favorite due to its properties which made it feel like an old, creaky mansion.

I was surprised by the lack of jump scares, but chalked it up to COVID precautions to keep the actors distanced. For a truly unique experience, you must try the “superhaunt”, Death Trap.

Death Trap uses natural human fears and reactions to spook you. This season the title is Shock Therapy, though given the tight squeeze to get through some of the parts of this haunt, claustrophobia is another fear that might plague you. The title is very true as I got zapped by some chains right off the bat, though the sensation is the full body equivalent of sticking your tongue on a 9 volt.

I truly enjoyed the challenge of attempting to dodge the many jolts waiting for me before escaping. I then returned to Cameo Rose for the night, but Screamin’ Acres is definitely a fun group activity to get the blood pumping.

I enjoyed a truly restful night on the soft memory foam and didn’t wake up until the next morning.

Due to COVID, the dining room is not currently being used at Cameo Rose so you can enjoy breakfast in your room or outdoors in various spots on the property. Dawn prepared a 4 course meal with fruit, an apple nut muffin, sausage, and mango stuffed French Toast followed by mint chocolate chip ice cream for dessert. The meal is perfectly portioned so you won’t feel overstuffed and the sausage is amazing (it’s organic). I felt amply fueled to visit The House on the Rock in nearby Spring Green.

If you’re in the region, you must visit the House. It was built by Alex Jordan as a private home for himself back in in the 1950s. But it was so original that people clamored to see it and Jordan eventually opened it up to the public and it became his life’s work.

Jordan built the house himself purely out of instinct and a knack for tinkering as he had no knowledge of architecture. Outside of its fascinating construction which includes a room dubbed the Infinity Room (it looks like it goes on forever), the house also contains some of the most incredible bric a brac you’ll ever lay eyes on.

Jordan was one of the world’s foremost collectors and his house expanded to huge rooms containing the many items he discovered over his life ranging from rare treasures to the bizarre and fantastical. You’ll see a suit of armor made for a dog (built by Jordan), radical combinations of instruments that will play for a token, intricate dollhouses, a main street from the turn of the century, a room containing 5 massive organs, the world’s largest carousel (and it has no horses) and so much more.

You could spend the day immersed in this incredible place and still return again and again to find something new.

I spent several hours here myself before returning to Cameo Rose to organize some photos and then I headed off to worship at St Francis of Assisi.

Father gave a pretty poignant sermon about having the faith of a child. When you’re a child, you instinctively trust your parents and you trust God without question. But in the process of growing up and learning how to support yourself, that faith wanes. Not necessarily in a bad way, but in a way where it becomes harder to “let go, let God” because you train yourself to feel like you have to do something instead of simply trusting and being led to the right spot. I assuredly have a lot to digest with this sermon.

After worship, I went to Paoli Schoolhouse American Bistro, the favorite restaurant of Gary and Dawn.

This restaurant is actually in an old schoolhouse and provides an intimate gourmet experience. I had the filet mignon in a marrow demi-glaze with whipped potatoes and Brussel Sprouts. I had never eaten sprouts before, but they taste like leafy broccoli. The potatoes were light and fluffy and my filet was cooked to perfection. This was truly dining.

After dinner, I retired to Cameo Rose for the night.

The trip seemed to end as quickly as it began. At first light, I was writing and editing. Then I got cleaned up for breakfast.

I decided to eat in the gazebo this morning and Dawn had prepared crustless quiche with a cacophany of ingredients, wheat toast, cinnamon scone with raisins, macademia nuts, and white chocolate chips, fruit, and a Neopolitan sundae for dessert.

I was so relaxed, but reality beckoned. But if you want to get away from it all and have a lot to get away to, make a reservation with Dawn and Gary to stay at Cameo Rose.

Until the next time. . .happy travels.

June 9, 2021 by Chris Elston

Switzerland in America: Black Bear Manor & Ouray, CO

Today the road has brought me to Ouray, CO.

Ouray (pronounced you-ray) is nicknamed the Switzerland of America and is a quaint, mountain village nestled in the Rocky Mountains. I was actually led to this trip by a couple (The Jacksons) whom I met when I visited Racine, WI earlier this year. They told me I had to visit Ouray as it contained the most beautiful B & B they had ever visited: Black Bear Manor owned and operated by Tom and Cyndi Elliston.

The inn was actually on my list, but on the farther end as Ouray is nearly 13 hours away from Omaha. But with the country rapidly reopening and the fact that I hadn’t had a proper vacation in nearly two years, I decided to embark on the biggest road trip I had undertaken.

This was truly a tale of two drives. The first day of the drive was pretty flat as once you get past Lincoln, the state of Nebraska is pretty flat and sightless. Around Kearney, the route veered off the interstate and became mostly a highway drive which broke up the monotony as I at least was able to drive through small towns.

Around noon, I found myself in the tiny town of Alma, NE and I decided I could use a lunch break to stretch my legs and stopped into KJ’s Café for a bite to eat.

It was a pretty decent little diner where I enjoyed a Special Hamburger (it’s uniquely seasoned) along with some fries while I continued working through my latest volume of Sherlock Holmes pastiches. After a restful meal, it was back on the road.

The lack of scenery continued to be broken by occasional forays through small towns as I passed from Nebraska into Kansas and eventually into Colorado.

After 7.5 hours, I finally found myself at my stopping point of Limon, CO. It’s a town of only 1,000 people yet actually has a Holiday Inn. I was weary and truly grateful for the free upgrade to a suite as I was darn near ready to collapse after the grueling drive.

A couple hours of relaxing did rejuvenate me enough to attend an evening service at Our Lady of Victory. Most surprising to me was that the service was at 7pm as, historically, most Catholic services tend to be held between 4 to 5:30pm on Saturdays.

It was a very nice service as Father shared a great sermon about witnessing and the best way to do it was to tell people about why Jesus was my friend. After the service I returned to the hotel where I read for a bit before finally answering the calls to the land of Nod.

The next morning, I was out the door by 8am for another long drive. But the scenery began to change around Colorado Springs when I saw the Rockies looming in the distance. Soon I was enjoying a picturesque drive through the mountains and forests and I just drank in the scenery as well as watching numerous rafters shoot the rapids.

Around 3pm, I finally arrived in Ouray and felt like I was transported back in time. The town definitely has the feeling of another era with its older building designs and a Main Street where all the major businesses are located. And everything is within walking distance.

Soon I found myself at Black Bear Manor which is one of the most interestingly constructed houses I had seen and I suspect the building had been a traditional hotel once upon a time. Before I could dial the inn’s number, Tom opened the door, introduced me to Cyndi, and gave me the nickel tour of the inn before leading me to lucky number 7, Cliffside King.

The room is small, yet comfortable, with a soft king-sized bed and a private balcony which has a view of the Rockies. I got settled in, wandered about the inn, and then took a walk through town.

Ouray has a semi-boxed in feeling as it’s surrounded by mountains on all sides and only has two ways in and out. One from the north and one from the south. The southern entrance/exit is actually the start of the Million Dollar Highway. This highway is a 20ish mile stretch of road considered the most beautiful drive in America. The flip side is that it’s also considered one of the most dangerous with its narrow roads, hairpin turns, and lack of guardrails. The speed limit never exceeds 25 mph on this road that connects Ouray with Silverton.

I had a relaxing walk through town (though it is very steep) and stopped in at Ray’s Jerky where I bought some jalapeno jerky for my hikes the next day and snacked on an old-fashioned hot fudge sundae complete with whipped cream, sprinkles, and a cherry at The Yankee Girl Café & Sweets before going back to the inn.

I decompressed for a bit before heading out to dinner at the Ouray Brewery. Only rooftop dining is currently available, but it was a cool evening and I supped on a Green Chile Cheeseburger while sipping on a Box Canyon Brown (most beer in Ouray is brewed locally or regionally) which was quite flavorful and tasted closer to a black beer without the bitterness. After a satisfying meal, I returned to the inn and spent some time in the hot tub where the churning water massaged and soothed aching muscles. I then went back to my room where I forced myself to stay up late to compel my body to adapt to Mountain Time.

The plan worked as I woke up at 6am. I then lazed about watching some TV and catching up on the news. At 9am I headed down to breakfast.

Black Bear Manor is unique in that it offers two breakfasts. At 7am a continental breakfast is laid out and then a hot meal is served at 9am.

The hot breakfast is served buffet style so you can have as much or as little as you please. The place was packed as the inn was actually sold out (the first I’ve experienced since starting this project back in 2013). I filled my plate with a smidge of everything so I was able to enjoy a taste of French Toast Souffle, ham, fried potatoes, scrambled eggs, and fruit. It was such a nice day that I ate outside and enjoyed some conversation before heading off to commune with nature.

I began my day at Cascade Falls Park and I certainly got my exercise in. It’s not an extremely difficult trek, but it is steep and one has to take the much higher altitude into consideration so be sure to pace yourself. Interestingly enough, the trek actually starts at the waterfall and it is an awesome sight, not to mention a quite refreshing one as cool air buffets you from the thundering falls. I spent nearly two hours hiking around and keeping my strength up with water and jerky.

When I was through with Cascade Falls, I made my way over to Box Canyon Park which included a brief, and I do mean brief, drive on the Million Dollar Highway. Box Canyon contains two treks. An easy 500 foot walk to Box Canyon Falls and a difficult trek up to a high bridge overlooking the falls. With the sun beating down on my head and my protein supply depleted, not to mention the few hours I had just done, I decided to simply visit the falls.

The roar of the falls in deafening and one wouldn’t even be able to have a shouted conversation. As I gazed upon this force of nature, I suddenly realized how the battle between Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty would have played out in reality.

I then returned to Black Bear Manor where I organized photos and caught a small nap. Around 4pm, I took a walk down to Ouray Hot Springs and back and partook of Black Bear Manor’s happy hour where I enjoyed some regionally brewed beer.

About 6pm, I headed over to an Ouray institution, The Outlaw, for dinner. The restaurant has a rustic feel, but is actually a fine dining establishment. I entered the restaurant and smiled as I listened to the piano player deal up a bevy of standards and movie tunes. I was led to a table at the back where I ordered a New York Strip with garlic mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables. I had a side salad added on and the meal came with a small loaf of freshly baked garlic bread.

In fairness I didn’t think the salad merited the extra $5, but that was countered by the steak which was tender and delicious and seemed a bit bigger than the 10 oz advertised on the menu. The potatoes were fluffy and light and the vegetables were nice and crisp.

From there it was back to the inn for another session with the hot tub and a quiet, peaceful evening.

Breakfast the next morning consisted of a breakfast casserole, personal quiches, bacon, eggs, and fruit. I had another round of great conversation with fellow guests before embarking on my day.

As the previous day had been quite active, I decided today would be a relaxing day. So I decided to visit The Historic Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa & Lodgings. This is a very unassuming hotel, but hides the incredible vapor baths below.

For $25 per two hours, day guests can enjoy a soaking session in the famed caves. The mineral water that comes from the springs is a constant 104-108 degrees and is not recirculated. The water is completely chemical free and is known for its restorative and therapeutic properties. The cave acts as a natural sauna so you’ll really sweat out the impurities. Sections of the cave also drip much cooler water which helps to cool down the body after a session in the springs.

From there I returned to Cascade Falls where I just admired the waterfall while engaging in a conversation with my best friend. Afterwards, I headed down to the riverbank by Black Bear Manor where I pondered life for a little while.

In hindsight, I think I made the day too relaxing. By mid-afternoon, I was itching for another activity, but some nearby museums had not yet reopened and the local historical museum was about ready to close. Should I ever find myself this way again, I’ll be sure to visit them as well as schedule a jeep tour, another local highlight.

Instead I took a little walk and then enjoyed the happy hour where Tom serenaded the guests with some solo guitar work and songs. He even takes requests and I joined him for some two man harmony on Jim Croce’s “Operator (That’s Not the Way it Feels)”.

Tom performs for his guests during happy hour.

Then I made my way to The Mineshaft & Tiki Bar. This completely outdoor restaurant provides a comfortable eating experience under the sun and I enjoyed a Philly Steak for the evening repast before returning to Black Bear Manor for a bit of writing and photo organizing.

What a way to close the trip! Today I had what is easily one of the best breakfasts I’ve enjoyed since starting this project. This morning I enjoyed Chile Relleno Casserole, breakfast enchilada (with some red and green salsa), country potatoes, and a cinnamon roll that just melted in my mouth. Braced for the long trip, I wrapped up this article and said my good-byes.

If you ever find yourself in Ouray, rest assured you’ll find plenty to do. It’s a popular tourist site with activities for all seasons (famed for ice climbing and skiing in the winter). And if you want some real hospitality, make sure to visit Black Bear Manor. Tom and Cyndi will treat you right and you’ll enjoy comfortable rooms and food that will knock your socks off.

Until the next time. . .happy travels.

	The Blue, Bluegrass… on ‘The Music Man’ is…
	Kevin Johnson on The Dreams of Success
	Chris Elston on Keep Out!
	A theatre fan on Keep Out!
	The Night I Returned… on Devastation

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Category Archives: B & B Reviews

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Switzerland in America: Black Bear Manor & Ouray, CO